Race in Mississippi

Racism in Mississippi did not present itself to me in the overt way that I had expected. All of the people I worked with and interacted with were deeply regretful of Mississippi’s past and expressed the desire to have a continually more cohesive future. Many made the point that the state of Mississippi has seen greater change in race-relations in the last 50 years than any other state in the U.S. Many consider other states’ finger-pointing at racial-inequity in Mississippi as a means to deflect attention from their own racial injustices. Some don’t see Mississippi as any more racist than other places in the world, they see it as merely a state with a terrible history of racial discrimination.

I cannot say that Mississippi is more racist than anywhere else I have been especially given Australia’s past and present discrimination of Aboriginal Australians. However, I have never seen such clearly racially segregated living as I did in Cleveland. 

A train used to run through the centre of Downtown Cleveland, cutting it in half. Though the train no longer passes through Cleveland its divisive quality remains.  On one side of Cleveland is (with perhaps a few exceptions) the white population who live predominately in affluent to middle class housing. 

On the other side of the tracks, in East Cleveland, it is a whole different world. Here virtually everyone is black and while there are upper and lower middle class houses, the majority of the area is defined by poverty.

As I walked through the area it became very obvious that white people rarely venture this way.  Shouts of “Hey white girl!”, “What you doin’ white girl?”, “What you looking for? You want a ride?” greeted me everywhere I went. I had never before felt so conspicuous and guilty for my 'whiteness' as I did that day. Though I did attract those shouts and some suspicious glances, everyone in the area spoke to me with typical Southern charm. I met a fascinating man who had grown up picking cotton on his grandfather’s farm in Cleveland. We sat talking in Mississippi’s sweltering heat and learnt a bit about each others lives, Sydney was as interesting for him as Mississippi was for me.

After leaving East Cleveland I never really saw the area in the same way again. It is very easy working downtown, living with scholars and interacting with locals of similar economic status to completely miss the cycle of poverty and disadvantage that still rules Cleveland, and probably a lot of Mississippi. 

Mississippi in a lot of ways is no more inequitable than many other places in the world, my two homes, Sydney and Durham included. Seeing such inequality through my ‘outsider’ eyes highlighted for me just how easy it is to pass over entrenched racism in our everyday lives. My Community Summer then, taught me not only to open my eyes to Mississippi, but also to a different and more perceptive way of thinking and seeing the world I am in.

Communal Living

Now as interesting and important as Mississippi is, one of the key parts of Community Summer is living with other scholars. Though most people have a roommate freshman year, there is something very different about living with around 7 people for 8 weeks straight. For only-child, small-family me, constantly interacting with so many people was both unusual and fun.

There were 14 scholars in Mississippi randomly divided into two houses. There were 7 in my house (or the ‘Apartment’) and 7 just across a car park in another house. My ‘apartment’ was more of a small add-on to a long-abandoned dorm building, which was lovingly given the title “The Sketchy Space” and thoroughly checked for possible squatters.

Given that most of the 14 of us only had basic cooking and cleaning experiences, Cleveland didn’t offer much in terms of nightlife (or arguably day-life) and rare few of us would ever be described as passive, the summer made for some interesting, reality-show worthy moments. Arguments over who ate whose food, who let the mosquitos in and who used the last of the toilet paper…again were coupled with barbeques, card games and lots of long late night chats.

Things that become apparent when you live with people:

• Somebody always leaves the toilet roll empty and the tap dripping, but surprisingly no one is ever to blame. My sincerest apologies to my mother and father for the years at home where I was that person, you were right, it is annoying.
• For some reason BOTH packets of bread, ham, cheese or spinach will always be open at the same time, for no good reason.
• People who like to sleep early, or sleep at all (luckily not me) are in for a rough time, there will always be people awake talking or singing along with the guitar – no matter what time.
• Even the pacifists who resist killing cockroaches and spiders will surrender under the pressure of the bug onslaught, and even lead the mass-mosquito extinction.

All the different houses and locations had a different living experience this Community Summer so I can't speak for everyone. For me, living with Charlotte, Rachel, Brooke, Sebastian, Christina and Griffin made the summer an amazing experience. I could not be more grateful for their fun-loving natures, willingness to pitch in, interesting conversations and loving personalities.

Life in Cleveland, Mississippi

Refresher: For Community Summer the Robertson Program places you and other scholars in either Whitesburg- Kentucky, New Orleans - Louisiana or Cleveland- Mississippi to live together whilst working in different volunteer capacities eg: writing for the local newspaper or teaching students from disadvantaged backgrounds.

With a week of sophomore year under my belt, I figure it was past time to tell y’all (only kidding) about my summer, specifically my time in Cleveland, Mississippi. I’ve had some time since leaving MS to process my two-month experience there. The combination of working and immersing myself in an entirely different culture while living with 7 people 24/7 for two months was what made this summer so unique and memorable. I may never do anything like this summer again and so I am so grateful for my 8 weeks of writing local interest stories, observing a distinctive culture and bonding with incredible people.

What I came to know, love and laugh about in Mississippi:

Weather: You know when you have a really hot shower and you step out into a steamy, sticky swirl of heat? That’s pretty much Mississippi summer weather.

I actually like humidity and heat though my hair does not (think Princess Diaries before the makeover). However, not everyone loved being sticky all the time and I have to admit there were some very hot days that made me extremely thankful for our air-conditioning!

Mississippi’s climate is a perfect incubus for mosquito and cockroach breeding. Luckily I managed to dodge the worst of the mozzie bites sharing a room with Charlotte whose blood must be the most delicious thing ever. The seven of us in the apartment became a mozzie and roach killing team… except for Seb who would just climb on top of furniture and scream “Murder it! Murder it!” There was definitely something to be said for the truck blasting a cloud of mosquito killing, possibly tumor inducing, chemicals over Cleveland every night.

People: The people in Cleveland epitomize the meaning of Southern Hospitality. They are warm, generous and social people who cherish the community they have built around them. However, as much as they love their town most of them would appreciate being able to go grocery shopping, go on a date or have a little bit of a whinge about their neighbor, without it being popular local gossip.

Food: Is fried. ‘Soul Food’ aka fried chicken, candied yams, biscuits, fried okra and fried catfish is in fact the heart and soul of Mississippi cuisine (at least in Cleveland). There are rare few international cuisine influences, apart from the odd Chinese-Japanese restaurant (because all Asain food is alike – right?) and a Mexican restaurant run by, and I quote, “real Mexicans!” In fact when I asked in Walmart where I could find pesto I only got blank looks. After spelling the word out, describing how it is made and what it is used for and receiving only “Ain’t got no idea what that is”…I gave up. That being said I am sure the Mississippians would have found my acute lack of knowledge of okra and how to eat a hot tamale, (note: you take off the inedible, tough corn husk before biting, persistently chewing and swallowing), highly amusing.

Expressions: Aside from the obvious, now familiar, “y’all”, I had to adjust to a much more Southern accent and way of speaking than I find in the largely heterogeneous community at Duke. My personal favourite was “finna” as in “I’m finna go to church”. An abbreviation of “fixing to” aka “about to do something” this one never stopped taking me by surprise. Also, when my editor said she could “carry” me home, she didn’t mean physically in her arms. To “carry” someone somewhere just means that you’ll give them a ride (or Aussie style: a lift). People in Mississippi seemed so kindly when they spoke about people in town, “Oh the girl who works downtown? Bless her heart!” they would exclaim. Turns out “Bless your heart” is a southern way of veiling insults, “She is so slow at packing those groceries, bless her heart”. So if somebody blesses your heart down in Mississippi you better figure out what ignorant, slow or out of place thing you’ve done.

I finna go now but I wanted to say how much I loved the friendly, easy-going atmosphere of Mississippi where the clock runs on Delta-time and everyone always has a minute and a smile to spare.

From Sydney to the 'Sippi

About a year ago I left my hometown Sydney, Australia behind and moved to America, as part of the Robertson Scholars Leadership Program at Duke University. Forsaking kangaroos for raccoons, beachside December for snow, the “barbie” for BBQ and Vegemite for peanut butter and jelly, moving was a big change. In my year in the United States I have travelled from North Carolina to New York to California to Florida. Embracing different atmospheres, people and attitudes has always fascinated me. I was therefore really looking forward to my eight weeks in Cleveland as part of the Robertson Program, interning at Coopwood Communications. I knew it would be a culture and an experience unlike anything back home, or what I have experienced in the U.S so far.

Unfortunately, I was one of a rare few people excited for my summer in Mississippi. Quite honestly when I told people where I was going I would always get the same response, “Cleveland, Mississippi? Why would you go there?” People took on my excitement as a personal challenge and would do their utmost to squash my enthusiasm. They would begin by lamenting about how boring Mississippi was, then complain about the people “I mean, they are all rednecks” and finally tell me I would “die” from the heat and mosquitos. I really resented these comments, and the bigoted mindset they displayed, the very mindset that these people were attributing to Mississippians.  

They couldn’t have been more wrong.

From the moment I landed at Memphis airport where Rachel Bush, a graphic designer at Coopwood was generously waiting for me, every single person went out of his or her way to be friendly, informative and welcoming. I was a little startled at first by being so enthusiastically greeted on the street. In a city you’re lucky if you get a head nod or smile. This southern hospitality made Cleveland feel like “home” very quickly. Just the other evening I had the privilege, thanks to gallery owner Will Jacks, of being welcomed to join dinner with him and his photographer friends. They shared with me their rich family history while I admired hundreds of beautiful photos.

I’ve only been here two weeks but in that time I have encountered people from all walks of life: farmers, photographers, students, bar tenders, lawyers and editors. Many of these people were born in Cleveland and either never left, or came back here to raise a family. I can see why, there is a charm to knowing everyone around town, sharing stories at the local coffee shop and, having your children play with your friend’s sons and daughters. Cleveland is also just so beautiful with its flat expanse stretching out to fuchsia sunsets, blue skies and majestic rains.

I am not denying that education and race relations are large problems in Mississippi, like in many other places of the world. However, the people I have met here are aware of the problems and are actively seeking to engage in dialogue about these issues so that they can be remedied.

I haven’t even been in Cleveland for three weeks but I’ve sampled local food (finding out the hard way that the “pastry” tamales are encased with is in fact paper), been to Hey Joe’s, got caught in a huge storm, eaten by mosquitos and met incredible, interesting people who lead diverse and fulfilling lives.

I already am very charmed by, and protective of you Cleveland so I can only imagine how much more attached I will be in five weeks…

Can I be an honorary Delta girl?

**This was published as a guest column in "The Cleveland Current"the newspaper I am working for in Cleveland for 8 weeks.

California Girl

I have a new love affair…and its California. New York I’m sorry, you and I have had some great times together but California is offering me so much more: the ocean and sunshine. NY you can be a little cold sometimes…

Don’t worry I’ll keep you as a casual weekend fun kind of thing.

A cross between Sydney and Europe California is warm, beautiful, fun and full of beautiful people. I was lucky enough to stay Shelby’s step-mother’s house, forever now known as “Resort Renee”. When we weren’t spending our days lazing by the pool, drinking smoothies, exploring secret beaches, having picnics or shopping, Shelby was showing me her home city – San Diego. An eclectic, friendly and summer-loving place, San Diego offered me everything from Acai bowls, hikes, surf and brilliant sunsets.

Shelby – tour guide, friend and driver extraordinaire also lead a weekend road trip. From San Diego, to UCLA, to UCSB we had an amazing time! We met up with friends, ate like the locals, checked out the nightlife at different colleges, went to a paint party and soaked up some much needed sun. Back in San Diego we even managed to sneak in prom!

 After two weeks with my college bestie, I was so excited to see my long-standing bffls…aka Mum and Dad. Just as I had sufficiently drove Shelby’s family insane counting down the hours until they arrived…the evening had come! And they were trapped in San Fran…having missed their connecting flight (thanks Air New Zealand). The Wailes family leapt to attention and distracted me (whilst Mum and Dad got rejected from standby). The next morning they arrived and a new set of fun began!

We caught up on lots of tid bits of information that slip through the cracks with Skype and whatsapp and enjoyed 5 days exploring San Diego with Shelby’s family.Though we hit a bit of a cold snap we walked around, ate at delicious restaurants, went out on an old friend’s boat for the day and enjoyed cooking for Shelby’s family. Then the Maray’s were off on the Highway 1 trip from San Diego to San Fran.

We left a little late one day (having too much fun eating at the Country Club) and so skipped Santa Monica and LA on our way to Santa Barbara. (Don’t worry I had been earlier with Shelby and have to say it was one of my favourite places in America). We stayed in a gorgeous B&B for two nights in Santa Barbara, tried out local Mexican and seafood, went down to the pier, admired gorgeous chalk art and explored the area. We then drove through wine country, checked out some sights and the next day began the Big Sur drive. With sheer cliffs, blue seas, an abundance of seals and even a beach waterfall it was a gorgeous drive and we had lunch on a cliffside terrace overlooking the water.

Settling into our wood cabin for the night we played memory (I won), hangman (mum won) and spot the squirrel (dad won) and headed out a bit too late for dinner. The next door “restaurant” was a comedy of errors, didn’t get seated despite multiple free seats, forgot a dish, forgot cutlery, put cutlery down on dirty table…
After Dad quite loudly called our bearded waiter “Caveman” we thought it well time to leave…and after navigating in the dark made it to our fire pit for some Aussie s’mores aka just Tim Tams and fireside songs. 

The next morning, after some blueberry pancakes, we were on the road again. Stopping to investigate the somewhat exclusive beach side Carmel we headed to Monterey. Though our hotel room overlooked a petrol (gas) station and Dad’s bad parking, Monterey was incredibly beautiful. The pastel beachside houses, cute piers and nighttime market really made the town. We had a lovely dinner all together on the water, looking at seals frolicking as Mum fell in love with a crab and avocado tower.

The last leg of our journey had come far too quickly…San Francisco. With Mum determinately singing “San Francisco open your golden gates” we crawled through traffic into San Fran at about 8pm. Dinner that night was just down the road at Pacific Catch where fish tacos, Korean sticky ribs, Hawaiian Poke and sweet Thai iced tea all blended together in a sleep inducing mix. Our next few days in San Fran were spent on cable cars, admiring the architecture, spying the Golden Gate bridge, heading over to Berkley, sampling more seafood and Ghirardelli sundaes. All too soon we were rushing out of Walmart (we have way too much fun there) and heading for their airport.

Saying goodbye was a little harder than I expected, even though I was seeing them in eight weeks. These extra two weeks, which we had never intended upon, were so fantastic.I am awaiting impatiently my next trip to California and my trip to France with Mum and Dad in August, but in the meantime I will have to enjoy my next adventure: the Mississippi Delta!